Can an American Teach the Italians to Make Wine?
Thursday, August 27th, 2009Depends on who you ask. Hint: don’t ask the Italians.
The people you can ask are John and Pam Mariani, who, in the early 1970s, journeyed to the heart of Tuscany and bought themselves a castle. A real one, with towers and parapets and all the other stuff a castle is supposed to have, except I don’t remember seeing a moat. As you exit the autostrada coming into the Montalcino area about 35 miles south of Siena, the ancient fortress rises in the distance to your left, looking, one can imagine, much as it did in the days of the Medicis.
John Mariani, Jr., had done quite well as a wine and spirits distributor in Long Island, partially because he and his brother were the first to introduce Lambrusco to the United States. Under the Reunite label, they sold a ton of the stuff, which gave them the resources to go shopping for vineyards in the Brunello region, and if the property happened to have a castle on it, well, they wouldn’t mind too much. The incredible success of Reunite convinced John that he knew what kind of wines Americans would actually buy and enjoy. Remember, this is back when all we knew about Italian wines over here was that the bottles came in cute little baskets and they made great candle holders for our dorm rooms and apartments.
John and his family had some extraordinarily deep roots in the country. When his father was nine years old, his mother took him from their home in Connecticut to live in Milan. They boarded with his aunt, Teodolinda Banfi, who just happened to be director of the household staff of the Cardinal Archbishop of Milan, Achille Ratti.
The Archbishop, being more than capable in his profession, enjoyed some mild success and became Pope Pius XI. One of his first official acts was to bring Teodolinda to Rome to run his household in the Vatican. She was the first woman in history other than a nun to live in the Papal residence. Caused a bit of a stir.











